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In this journey we follow George Schaller, one of the foremost conservation biologists of the 20th century, in his search for the calving grounds of the Tibetan antelope. On a more profound level, this is a story about a physically and psychologically demanding journey into a wild and remote place where, according to Schaller, "mind and body can travel, where one’s soul can dance." There are few people as dedicated to the preservation of the natural world as American biologist George Schaller, director of science for the Wildlife Conservation Society. At 68 years of age, with an impressive career that spans half a century, this tireless wildlife ambassador has yet to slow down. The Chang Tang Reserve, which Schaller helped set up 10 years ago, is China’s largest nature reserve, and the world’s second largest, after ice-bound Greenland National Park. But still the chiru, in spite of its protected status, is being hunted into extinction for its valuable wool, known as shatoosh - the finest and most expensive animal fiber in the world. The shawls, woven on special looms in Kashmir, sell for as much as $20,000 on the world market. In order to raise the level of awareness that can lead to greater protection for the antelope and its habitat, Schaller wants to know where the chiru go to give birth. Over the last 15 years, he has tried several times to locate this remote nursery by vehicle from the south. Each time, much to his frustration, the animals disappeared north into the austere foothills toward the Kunlun Mountains where he could not follow them. He was convinced that in these hidden, uplands which lie across the border from Tibet in Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region the animals migrate to give birth. This time Schaller, more determined than ever, adopted a different tactic. Travelling like explorers of a hundred years ago, we organized a caravan of 2 camels, 24 donkeys and six local Uighur people. In early June we left the last oasis town on the edge of the Taklamakan Desert and headed into a region where only a handful of Westerners such as Sven Hedin and Captain Deasy have ventured. We battled snow storms, crossed raging river currents and penetrated a high and dry landscape that made survival difficult. We struggled to keep our animals alive in those conditions but eventually 5 of the donkeys, emaciated and worn out, had to be left behind. Finally, after crossing several high passes up to 5,200 meters, we reached the Shor Kul salt lake, and in the barren hills beyond, we counted 1,300 Tibetan antelope. They were all females with their young of the previous year -- we had found what we were looking for: the birthing grounds of the largest remaining herd of Tibetan antelope. Dr. Schaller had located what he needed to delineate a new protected area that would adjoin the Chang Tang Reserve and cover the entire migratory route of the Tibetan antelope. The wild yaks, also endangered and illegally hunted, depend on the integrity of this area as well. When Dr. Schaller returned from his expedition in July, he sent his report to the Chinese government of Xinjiang, encouraging the officials to protect the area and all the antelope, wild yaks and wolves that live there. For this wildlife spokesman who regularly launches out on expeditions to remote lands on behalf of the non-human world he has taken yet another step to protect the rich diversity of the world we live in. For info on the chiru: http://www.savetibet.org/campaigns/biodiversity/index.php http://whyfiles.org/136last_eden/2.html
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